Let me first off say that this is the way I weave on a lap loom. There is the regular method to warp the entire frame found here on Loom & Spindle's site.
What you'll need:
- Lap loom (Mine is 12x16")
- Yarn (I used a total of 6 colors, 5 of them were actually woven and the last 1 was used to tie rya knots)
- Yarn/thread for the warp (Your warp is what you set up on the loom and the yarn that you weave is called the weft. I usually use household twine from the hardware store)
- Stick shuttle (This is optional. In the photo I have it shown because it came with the kit, but I am difficult and like balling up my yarn)
- Measuring device
- Shed stick (Optional)
- Dinglehopper/comb (Optional)
- Stick to hang the weaving on (Mine is 12")
- Needle with big eye
The first thing I did was cut 10 pieces of sting, each 38" long.
I warp my pieces on the lap loom differently. I don't like the hassle of tying off ends and then stitching the the hanging hardware on. "Fold" the string in half and fold again with the loop over the front side of the stick. Then tuck in the tails and tighten. It should look like a necktie with the knot in front.
Repeat until all 10 are tied on.
My next step, I tied the stick to the loom and tied the warp strings together under the pegs. I tried to do this as taunt as possible.
The weaving I did was a plain weave, placing yarn in and out of every other warp. I used my ruler to show the benefits of a shed stick only my ruler is skinny and a bit difficult to do this with. A paint stir stick from your local hardware store would work.
With my lap loom, I turn it upside and weave. That's right.
Weave the stick in and out every other warp and with the stick placed all the way across, turn it so it opens up pathway for the yarn. Then repeat, only weave the opposite every other warp. This does make it easier to weave. Again, Loom & Spindle has a great example with photos of a plain weave.
When I'm starting and adding new weft, I always leave at least 2-2.5" of tail out to tuck in later.
You can use your dinglehopper to help you pack your weaving.
I wove 3 times across and on the 4th time, I turned it around and left out 1 warp.
Before you get too far with the blue yarn, you want to add the grey.
When adding another weft, you want to interlock both wefts to the same warp so the weaving isn't split (unless that's what you're going for).
Make sure to keep your edges straight. It's really easy to accidentally have an extremely tight tension especially since the way I warp bows out.
So lets go back to the first wefts. I wove back and forth three times before turning around to skip one warp. Then I wove again three more times before skipping another warp. If you look at my weaving, this creates "steps".
My grey part has 8 steps, mustard 5 steps and coral 5 steps. My blue triangle has a total of 19 steps, but before I added the baby pink, I weaved across three more times. Then I finally finished it with 12 wefts of pink.
Don't forget to tuck in your tails. This is where your needle will come in handy. (I admit, I don't always do this).
Lastly, I wanted to add some fringes to the bottom so I measured off some yarn using my loom. I wrapped it around 5 times before cutting one side of the bunch. I did this 19 times.
These fringes are called rya knots. I place the yarn under two warp threads and pull the middle of the yarn through. Then I grab the rest of the yarn and pull it up and through.
Remember that I am doing this with the loom upside down.
Need another example? Click here.
I doubled up on the fringes by knotting every warp twice (The rya knots are linked together with each sharing a warp thread). As I went along, I also cut loose two warp threads at a time and tied them off.